When you mention phuchka in Kolkata, Vivekananda Park deserves a special tribute. This iconic location pioneered the city’s phuchka culture, becoming a culinary landmark that defined street food excellence.
As a food writer, I’ve witnessed countless debates comparing regional street foods—from biryani battles to the eternal phuchka versus panipuri showdown. But these comparisons miss the point entirely. Each variation, whether it’s phuchka, panipuri, or pani ke batashe, tells its own unique story, shaped by local traditions and regional flavours.
In Kolkata’s heart, phuchka reigns supreme, and rightfully so.
Phuchka – The crunchy spicy water balls which explode in your mouth
Every Bengali has a phuchka story tucked away in their memories. For the uninitiated, our beloved street snack often needs an introduction, but for Kolkatans, phuchka is more than just crisp, hollow puris filled with spiced potatoes and tangy water – it’s an emotion, a daily ritual, a piece of our cultural fabric.
When I first attempted to count Kolkata’s phuchkawallahs, it sparked intense discussions across various forums. It’s fascinating how a simple street food census could stir such passion. You can read about it here- The Best Kolkata Phuchka. But then again, nothing about phuchka is simple in Kolkata. Even more surprising? You’ll find Bengalis who don’t fancy this street food sensation (yes, they exist!).
Who is the best amongst all of them?
The internet brims with tales of Kolkata’s legendary phuchkawallahs, each neighborhood championing their local vendor as the city’s finest. While debates rage about who serves the best phuchka, the story feels incomplete without mentioning two classics one often overshadowed—the humble alur dom (spiced potato curry) and the iconic Dilip da, both integral to Kolkata’s phuchka legacy.
Speaking of accompaniments, no phuchka discussion is complete without churmur – that delightful crushed variation that’s become a street food star in its own right.
Durga Pandit, Dilip Da and Vivekanada Park – the Phuchka Hub
The story of Vivekananda Park’s phuchka legacy begins with Thakur Pandit, who brought this street food revolution from Bihar. His daughter, Durga Pandit, inherited more than just a phuchka stall; she carried forward a culinary tradition that would define Kolkata’s street food scene. She joined her father’s business and later ran it with her husband, creating her own mark in this male-dominated trade. Today, after her untimely passing, her husband and son maintain this cherished legacy.
While Durga Pandit was a trail-blazer, Dilip da created his own phuchka empire at the far end of Vivekananda Park. He transformed the humble phuchka with constant innovations. Today’s Instagram generation knows him for his revolutionary Thums Up Phuchka, but old-timers like us treasure his signature Alur Dom, which over the years, have transformed to legendary Vivekananda Park Alur Dom and not to forget his Phuchka always presented with his smile. His creative spirit and dedication have earned him a special place in Kolkata’s street food hall of fame. Dilip da is national figure as we jokingly say. Every celebrity, whether a chef or an actor or musician, if they come to Kolkata, they visit Dilip Da’s stall to taste his phuhka. The man is often flown in to high end destination weddings.
Both these stalwarts didn’t just sell phuchka – they crafted unforgettable experiences and built lasting legacies that continue to shape Kolkata’s street food culture.
Vivekananda Park Alur Dom – what makes it special
I have never tried Churmur from Dilip Da but have always tried the Alur Dom. I don’t remember when was the first time he offered this but my first flirting with Alur Dom was unplanned. Churmur, which uses up the not so puffy phuchkhas crushed into the same filing as Phuchka itself, is a popular snack and often seen as a starter for Bengali Pop ups. Now its the turn of the Vivekananda park Alur Dom.
What’s the secret of Vivekanada Park Alur Dom
Small baby potatoes most of the time ( I have never asked how they source them throughout the year and how each potato is of the same size), spicy with multiple flavours and of course the essence of Jhaal comes from the Red Chili Powder. We were supposed to do a Pop up this Pujo in Delhi and we had done some fun promo for that and here is one we had done for Alur Dom – here
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They serve it on a sal leaf plate, puncturing the topmost alu with a small toothpick. For the Phuchkawallahs, the Alur Dom is a pre-prepared dish that they cannot recreate. The other dishes require immediate assembly and customization, making them more accessible. Often as an after meal of a phuchka, I haven’t been able to do justice to Vivekananda Park Alur Dom, but now after this writing, I am craving and want to go for the Alur Dom only.
I guess you love Bengali food – check out the recipe for Bengali Bhoger Khichuri –
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Phuchkawalar Alur Dom
Ingredients
- 1 kg baby potato, boiled and peeled
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1 onion, blended to paste
- 1 tbsp garlic paste
- ½ tbsp ginger paste
- 1 tsp red chili powder
- 1 tsp Kashmiri red chili powder
- ½ tsp turmeric powder
- 1½ tsp coriander powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- 2 tbsp tamarind pulp
- salt to taste
- sugar to taste
- mustard oil as needed for deep frying
For garnish
- chopped green chilies
- chopped coriander leaves
- lemon juice
Bhaja Moshla for this recipe
- 1 dried bayleaf (tejpata)
- 3 dried red chilies
- 1 inch cinnamon stick
- 5 cloves
- 4 green cardamoms
- 1 tbsp black peppercorn
- 1 tbsp coriander seeds
- 1 tbsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp fennel seeds
- 1 blade mace
- ½ tsp nutmeg powder
Instructions
- Prepare the bhaja moshla by dry roasting the ingredients mentioned in the list. Once roasted, blend into a fine powder and add nutmeg powder. Set aside.
- Deep fry the boiled baby potatoes in mustard oil until golden. Remove and set aside.
- Heat mustard oil in a pan, add the finely chopped onion, and sauté until golden brown.
- Add the onion paste, garlic paste, and ginger paste to the pan. Sauté until the raw aroma disappears.
- Add the onion paste, garlic paste, and ginger paste to the pan. Sauté until the raw aroma disappears.
- Add the fried potatoes and tamarind pulp. Stir well, then add sugar and salt to taste.
- Mix everything thoroughly, add a little water, cover, and cook on low heat for 4-5 minutes to allow the potatoes to soak in the spices.
- Uncover, give everything a final mix, and remove from heat.
- Before serving, sprinkle with chopped coriander leaves, chopped green chilies and squeeze fresh lemon juice over the top. Serve hot.